One Month in Taiwan

Soaring more than 1,600 feet into the air, Taipei 101 is one of the tallest skyscrapers in the world and probably Taipei’s most iconic site. For a small fee, visitors can spend time on the observation deck—a large space that offers a 360-degree view of Taipei. From here, you can get a better understanding of the city and how it is organized. For that reason Taipei 101 is the best place to start your sightseeing adventures. There are also a number of great restaurants in Taipei 101 along with shops and entertainment options; you can plan at least half a day of experiences at this one site.

The base of Elephant Mountain is just a short walk from the base of Taipei 101 and offers one of the most accessible and stunning views of the city—except, perhaps, from the top of the tower itself. The hike up the mountain is steep, but can be done in about 15 minutes by a reasonably fit person. The less-than-perfectly fit need not worry though: there are plenty of lookouts and benches along the way.

Longshan is not Taipei’s largest temple, but its unique beauty and proximity to the MRT have made it a very popular one. It’s an awesome place to stop by at sunset when the after-work crowd comes to worship. The temple fills with people from all walks of life praying and telling fortunes using traditional bua buei blocks. The slanting light from the setting sun highlights the smoke rising from incense urns, giving it a supernatural feel.

When Chiang Kai-shek fled mainland China for Taiwan, he took with him many of the treasures that at one time were featured in Beijing’s Palace Museum. Among the items are relics and antiques reflecting 8,000 years of Chinese history. Today the collection includes nearly 700,000 pieces, an impressive collection that merits a full-day visit. Among the many treasures that once belonged to the Emperors of China are a delicately carved jade cabbage, intricate ivory work, and artifacts that chronicle the evolution of the Chinese language and culture over millennia. The gift shop is just as impressive, and is the perfect place to buy easy-to-carry souvenirs and gifts.

Every weekend thousands descend on this normally boring stretch of Taipei for one of the most impressive markets in town: the Jianguo Flower Market. Vendors from around the city and region display amazing examples of flowers and plants, many of which may be new to you. While you can’t take one of the beautiful floral displays home, next door to the flower market is the Jade Market, where you can pick up beautiful souvenirs at reasonable prices for you and your loved ones.

The Huaxi Night Market ((華西街觀光夜市), also known as ‘Snake Alley’ is famous for selling various snake-based goods such as medicine, soup, and wine. It’s best known, however, for the shots of snake blood that one can take. Pictured, from left to right, are snake blood (mixed with liquor), snake bile, and snake venom ‘antidote’. Of course, there are plenty of other traditional Taiwanese dishes available for the less adventurous. If you’d like to see somebody actually drink the snake blood shot, you need not visit Taipei. Just check out the video that Kevin Wu (who provided the photo) posted on his blog.

Located in the Guanyinshuan National Scenic Area in New Taipei, Taiwan‘s Yehlio Geopark showcases an otherworldly landscape that is not to be missed. It is the only place in the world where you can see the geological features present in this park, like mushroom rocks, sea-eroded troughs, and honeycombed formations that make you feel like you’re walking through a Salvador Dali painting. Make sure to also explore the nearby markets, which offer free samples of local foods.

These beautiful hot springs are located several kilometres into the gorge. To get there you must drive or cycle to the parking lot and then walk down a long wooden staircase built into the cliffside. At the bottom you’ll find a quaint Japanese-style changing room. From there you cross the river on a suspension bridge and then walk down to an open marble basin filled with flowing hot water. The view from the bottom of the gorge is spectacular, the water is blisteringly hot, and the river is near enough to jump in to cool off. And the best part: it’s free.

Sun Moon Lake is Taiwan‘s largest fresh water lake. When I lived in Nantou County, central Taiwan, I would often ride my scooter to Sun Moon Lake for a bit of fresh air and reflection. One day I drove to the lake and traveled up a hill to the Ci-en Pagoda. Parking my bike, I climbed to the top of the pagoda and gazed out at the misty lake, which seemed magical in that moment. Many legends surround Sun Moon Lake, including the one which says the lake was once inhabited by two dragons. These dragons used the sun and moon as toys, causing the world to fall into darkness. Eventually a young couple came and defeated the dragons, brining light back into the world. Sun Moon Lake is one of the most peaceful places I’ve ever visited.

Often said to be the tallest mountain in East Asia, at 3952 m climbing Taiwan‘s Jade Mountain (or Yushan 玉山) is an epic undertaking, even for experienced hikers. The trip takes most hikers two days, although some people do manage to rush to the summit and back in one long (12-14 hour) day. Jade Mountain is a very popular hike and the number of people on the trail is limited, so it’s recommended that you apply for a permit far in advance.

Alishan is likely the most famous, and most visited, mountain because of the incomparable tea grown there, its relatively easy access from major cities, and its association with the historic Taiwan Railroad. The best way to see Alishan is to hike the many trails that wrap around it, but the easiest way to see all of the best parts is to the the Train Tour, which offers views unlike any I’ve seen from a train in my life. Think about those mystical (kind of cheesy) Chinese paintings of mountains shrouded in mist that seem too scenic and serene to be true. A view from high on Alishan early in the morning will prove to you that those paintings are not only realistic, but understated.

The flames on top of this pool of water are said to have been burning for more than 300 years, and were started by and earthquake that opened a fissure in the earth releasing natural gas into the bottom of the pool. The phenomenon is definitely worth stopping by, especially if you are interested in visiting the nearby Guanziling Hot Springs -- another of the area’s natural wonders.

Night markets are a quintessential Taiwan experience. Young couples, families, retirees, and swarms of teenagers descend upon these markets to graze, gossip, flirt, play, and graze some more. Lately, the ones in Taipei have been over-run by camera-toting tourists. For a real local experience, head to the charming town of Tainan. Generally laid-back and filled with colonial relics left behind by the Dutch and Japanese, Tainan also has one of the liveliest--and most local--night markets I’ve been to in recent years. Plunge into the food stall section and try specialties like oyster omelets, hand-made mochi filled with peanut or black sesame, and sausages made with sticky rice. Then head over to the cacophonous games section and watch punters try their luck for an enormous stuffed animal. (The kiddie ping-pong version of pachinko is particularly amusing/perturbing.) Had enough? Push you way back through the crowds and if you’re in luck, you’ll find the vendor selling the most exquisite pink guava mixed with sour plum powder.

Xiao Liuchiu is a beautiful island, but the best spot has to be the iconic Vase Rock. This spot is located near the downtown area and ferry dock. There’s a wooden walkway where you can walk along the coast and watch the sun set over the Taiwan Strait. There is also a beautiful coral reef filled with sea life, which makes for spectacular snorkelling. I thoroughly enjoyed both.

Black Dwarf Cave (also known as Black Ghost Cave) is located on Xiao Liuchiu’s west coast. It’s more of a walkway through a maze of precipitous lava rock formations than a tunnel into a cliff like one normally expects of a cave. The cave has a morbid history; more than three hundred aboriginals were burned alive here by the Dutch during their occupation of Taiwan. The cave, however, is beautiful, with several vistas like the one pictured here overlooking the Taiwan Strait.

This west-facing beach may appear to be white sand at a glance, but your bare feet will quickly discover that it’s made of corse shards of coral, so watch your step. Rough edges aside, this beach is seldom visited (some people may have been known to camp on it) and is an excellent place to enjoy the sunset with a few Taiwan Beer and good company.

Asia’s first bike hotel, YOHO Bike Hotel in Shanhai, Kenting, Taiwan. The hotel is geared toward bikers, with 68 rooms featuring bike racks, an onsite Giant bike rental and tour agency, a bike maintenance area, a bikers lounge with a projection screen for photos, bikers message board, and cycling magazines, cyclist training courses, an Off-Road Experience Center, a special VIP check-in for cyclists and more. The hotel will give you a map of the area so you can bike to the many attractions, like the National Museum of Marine Biologic Aquarium, Shih Chunghsi Hot Springs, Lake Lunglunan Bird Watching Center, Maopitou Park, Kenting Forest Recreation Area and downtown Kenting. Staying at the YOHO Bike Hotel is a great way to explore Taiwan’s rich cycling culture.

My photo does not do this beach justice. Flanked by coral, Baisha (which means “white sand” in Chinese) Beach is possibly the most beautiful beach on the island. Just outside of Kenting, this beach is popular with visitors year-round. There are several hotels nearby as well as two campgrounds. It is rare to hear that somebody has traveled to the south of Taiwan without stopping by this gorgeous place.

Not far from Baisha Beach on a fairly remote stretch of coastline is one of Taiwan‘s finest attractions: the National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium (國立海洋生物博物館). Despite the odd local, this world-class aquarium is sure to impress. The massive, modern structure houses everything from whale sharks (pictured here) to exotic fish from around the world, to an enormous cold-tank full of penguins. Although it’s a bit out of the way, this should not be missed.

The ChuHuo Eternal Flame (恆春出火) just outside of Hengchun in the far south of Taiwan is definitely worth a stop. Natural gas seeps up from the earth and ignites on this otherwise dead area of rock and sand ground. There are several areas of fire to see and, on at busy times, there are vendors in the parking lot who will sell you popcorn to pop over the eternal flames.

The W Taipei showcases the city’s geography and cutting-edge technology. The lobby’s light installation reacts to human motion, and guest rooms feature dramatic skyline views. The W is also home to some of Taipei’s hottest nightspots, including the Bar at Yen on the top floor. From $314. 886/(0) 2-7703-8888. This appeared in the November/December 2012 issue.