Kyoto Highlights

While Japan often remains aloof to many first-time visitors, Kyoto feels intentionally difficult to get to know—even to Tokyoites who visit frequently. Getting some kind of entrée to hidden gems is especially useful here. Enter humble American-turned-Kyotoite Nemo Glassman, founder of Plus Alpha Japan. Many years living in Kyoto has given him a deep understanding of the city’s idiosyncrasies, of which there are many. Plus Alpha will arrange insider tours and intimate experiences throughout Kyoto and beyond. His tours aim to facilitate deeper engagement for travelers, whether imbibing with izakaya chefs, practicing zazen meditation with Buddhist abbots, or enjoying a tea ceremony performed by a maiko (apprentice geisha).

D&Department, a youthful shop housed in a 13th-century Bukkoji temple, focuses on designer housewares, kitchen goods, and foods. Conceived by Kenmei Nagaoka, a professor at Kyoto University of Art and Design, and his students, the store sells products such as sturdy tea mugs and glass tokkuri (Japanese sake sets), and highlights specialty, small-batch food producers whom they’ve met in person. The result is a special range of sesame seed oils, additive-free pickles, and heirloom misos and soys. D&Department will occasionally include imported products that adhere to the founders’ ethos, such as durable Freitag bags from Switzerland, which are made from recycled truck tarps.

There’s a lot of tourists Instagram-browsing in Kyoto’s famed Nishiki Market shops, which hawk salt-pickled cherry blossoms, barrels of other pickled vegetables, and takoyaki (fried octopus balls). But step off the bustling main drag and into this legendary knife shop to discover a rarefied world of chefs deliberating over blue steel boning knives with magnolia handles, or 12-inch Japanese alloy with rosewood and water buffalo horn. The tiny shop is chockful of handmade blades and cutting utensils gleaming like evidence behind glass cases. But Aritsugu is principally known for its custom-made knives, especially popular with lefties. The shop will also engrave your name or initials on your blade for free via the revolving whetstone behind the counter.

It’s said that the human eye can see more shades of green than any other color. Put the theory to the test at the Koke-dera, or Moss Temple, a veritable spectrum of jades, mints, artichokes, emeralds, and olives. The UNESCO World Heritage site, formally known as Saihoji, is home to around 120 types of moss, which carpet the temple ground’s forested floor in ways Akira Kurosawa couldn’t have dreamed up. Reservations to the temple must be made by snail mail months in advance in Japanese. After arrival, visitors are also asked to participate in Koke-Dera’s religious activities by observing kito and shakyo (respectively, the chanting and copying of Buddhist scriptures, called sutra).

Built in the 14th century as a villa for a powerful shogun, Kinkaku-ji temple, commonly referred to as the Golden Pavilion, is an easy bus ride from the main bus terminal in Kyoto. The temple is one of the most popular buildings in Japan, so expect a lot of fellow gawkers. It exemplifies several different Japanese architecture styles, and the top two levels are completely covered in gold leaf. The extensive gardens are beautifully manicured and serene, despite the abundance of visitors using selfie sticks.

Kiyomizu-dera on Mount Otowa is one of the most famous temples in Japan, a place that appears in every sequence of Japanese travel photos. The landscape is all cherry trees and forest; it is among Kyoto‘s loveliest spots. The current structure dates to 1633 and is one of 33 temples on a pilgrimage circuit in the Kansai region dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. The circuit runs from the south of Wakayama north to the Sea of Japan. You’ll see pilgrims carrying nokyo-cho—books stamped to record the visit—and monks busily inscribing in calligraphy. The temple, set against a steep hill and constructed on huge pilings, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Fushimi Inari Taisha on Inariyama mountain is dedicated to the Shinto gods of rice and sake, but Inari is also the god of merchants and that brings a lot of businesspeople to worship here. Everyone else stops by to see the thousands of vermilion torii, or gates (each of which is funded by a Japanese company). They lead to the main shrine, which was built in 1499. Walking underneath the gates is like passing through a fiery tangerine tunnel, and visitors leave behind tiny torii replicas as part of their prayer.

In 794 C.E., Emperor Kammu moved Japan’s capital to Kyoto, chiefly to keep the large Buddhist monasteries in the former capital of Nara from amassing even more power than they already had. (The capital and emperor moved to Tokyo in 1868.) The present imperial palace dates back to 1855, and it’s not the buildings that stand out but the extremely beautiful gardens and park, which is the city center’s main green space. Travelers need to obtain permission to visit the palace from the Imperial Household Agency, but the park is open to all. The plum trees and cherry blossoms bloom in March and April, and all year round the park attracts joggers, cyclists, walkers, and picnickers.